The steam rose slowly from the cups in ringlets and dispersed in the surrounding environment. Sitting back on the cane chairs in our balcony, legs outstretched on the table, I lazily watched the scene in front of me. The clouds were touching the ground, creating a misty atmosphere all around me. As far as my gaze went, I saw a play of green and white colours in all their different shades. From the dark green of the leaves on the tree to the lighter and brighter green on the grass. The still green reflecting off the surface of a temporary pond, created by the rain, was further highlighted by the grey and white clouds playing hide and seek on the ground. A minute they were there, and the next they were gone.
And here I was, sipping my hot ginger tea, relishing the piping hot Pakoras and simply relaxing. That is what Amarkantak does to you. The pace of the idyllic town makes you feel relaxed the minute you step in! This peaceful relaxation is what I was seeking after the hectic city life. And there couldn’t have been a better time to visit. The onset of monsoon after the extreme summer of Madhya Pradesh is perhaps the best time to visit this quaint little place. The soft white clouds rolled in as our car entered the city, and the effect was almost magical. Right from the time we entered, amidst a slight drizzle and playful clouds, we could feel ourselves relax.
My first introduction to Amarkantak was through the school textbooks, which taught me that this is the place where the river Narmada originates. This fact, in itself was intriguing enough for someone who has spent majority of her life on the banks of the mighty river. Nearly all major rivers in Northern India originate in the mighty Himalayas, but the river Narmada originates from a small kund (reservoir) in Amarkantak. As expected, this is the primary draw for people visiting the place and gives it a holy atmosphere. So, the Narmada Kund and the temple built around it was our first stop.
Narmada is one of the only two rivers flowing from East to West in India, the other being Tapti
Given it’s religious environment, Amarkantak has a number of temples with the prominent ones being
- Pataleshwar Temple – Located in close proximity to the Narmada Kund, these are a major attraction for history buffs and tourists alike. Built by the Kalchuri king Maharaja Karnadeva, this temple complex adds to the old world charm of the place.
- Shree Yantra Mandir – A comparatively newer addition to the temples of the town, this magnificent building can be easily identified from far away, thanks to its unique design. The temple’s roof with the 4 faces towards the four directions is an architectural masterpiece.
- Mai ki Bagiya – One of the many small temples dotting the entire landscape of the town with it’s own folklore, it contributes to the overall pilgrimage experience for those inclined.
- Kabir Kothi – Another tale from the temple town is that the prominent Sufi Saint, Sant Kabir spent many years in this town and Kabir Kothi is the place he is believed to have stayed during the time.
While the quiet little town is famous for its temples, there is plenty for nature lovers here and it is easy to forget the passage of time in the lush trails dotting the landscape. A word of caution though – wherever in town one goes, large groups of monkeys are always around to give company! Some of the most popular locations amongst nature lovers are
- Kapil Dhara – A lovely waterfall surrounded by greenery and the river falling nearly 100 ft makes for a soothing sight for weary travellers and we were no exception. Simply sitting on the banks and listening to the sound of flowing water can have such a calming effect – something we experienced first hand!
- Dugdha Dhara – A hidden gem of the region, this is another waterfall located around a kilometre further off Kapil Dhara, accessible only by foot. The falls are at their best during the monsoons, however the approach path becomes slippery and one needs to be cautious walking down the path.
- Sonmuda – Amarkantak’s claim to fame is not restricted to being the origin of just one river. Instead two other rivers – Son and Johila originate from this place and Sonmuda is the origin of Son River. The viewing platform presents a majestic view of the surrounding valley covered with jungles and is a favourite of the tourists visiting the place.
For someone looking forward to an offbeat and idyllic location in India, Amarkantak can be the ideal choice. With the holy atmosphere of the city, there is an abundance of Ashrams for those looking to travel on a budget. The town has accommodation options to cater to all budgets and expectations of travellers. All you need is to come here and experience the tranquility on your own and at your own pace.
As we returned from Sonmuda, we decided to visit a small tea shop to have a cup of tea and soak in the atmosphere a little more before returning from this magical place. Little did we know that the best experience of the overall journey was kept for the last. It started pouring heavily as we sipped our tea and listened to the sound of raindrops falling on the tin roof. Out of nowhere, a person sitting in one of the shops started playing a flute beautifully. The melodious notes of the flute mixed with the sound of pattering raindrops made the whole ambience magical and that is one of my most cherished stories of traveling in India.
IDYLLIC TALES 